eBay Neatness Tool: The Fabric Steamer (or To Steam or Not To Steam?)

My mother recently recommended that I buy a steamer.  She suggested it would save time when preparing clothing for eBay.  I had never used one before and I didn't want to invest in something I might not use very often.  I purchased a simple Conair Steamer with a telescopic pole to hang clothes on while I work.  I chose it partly because it was on sale and partly because it's a brand I trust. It's a great mid priced model (I paid about $60); and it does exactly what it's designed to do. 

Steaming vs Ironing (or Why steam at all?)

Fabric steaming is gentler on clothing than normal ironing.  It's also faster than ironing (with practice), it deodorizes fabric, and kills dust mites, germs, and bed bugs (Yuck!).  Steam does not burn or scorch clothing like a conventional iron, therefore, dry-clean items can be "cleaned" with a steamer.  It's important to know that steaming will NOT remove stains.  If you have a stain on a dry-clean garment, you will have to spot treat it first. Meaning, you will have to gently remove the stain with a damp cloth and a dab of cleaning solution (I use Woolite or Resolve Spray 'n Wash).

      

A badly wrinkled rayon shirt before and after a few minutes with my steamer.

While learning to use my new steamer, I discovered that there seemed to be cases in which ironing worked better.  I learned that deciding weather or not to steam (vs ironing) depends upon 3 factors:

1. Type of Fabric 2. Manufacturers Guidelines 3. Garment Construction

 

1. Type of Fabric  - The type of fabric makes a difference in how rapidly you can steam away wrinkles and creases.  Lightweight fabrics are easier to steam than heavier fabrics.  This has everything to do with the thickness of the material and the time it takes steam to penetrate it. Heavier fabrics may require repeated steamings or ironing to correct wrinkles.  Also, I have found that most synthetic fabrics seem to steam more easily and quickly than natural fibers. This may have something to do with the fact that most man-made clothing fibers are designed to resist wrinkles. They are more elastic, thus they heat up quickly and relax rapidly when steamed.

2. Manufacturer Guidelines -   Steaming is not ideal for all fabrics.  Some types of silk, velour and vinyl can be damaged by steaming. You should refer to the manufacturer's cleaning guidelines before steaming them or perform a test on a small piece of material if possible. 

3. Garment Construction - Take a good look at the construction of the clothing when deciding weather or not to steam it.  Does it have beads, ruffles, ribbons, or other embellishments that would not withstand a hot iron?  Is there a collar, or cuffs, hems or pleats that would benefit from ironing?  Occasionally, the answer is a combination of both steaming and ironing.

 I love my steamer. I honestly do not know how I have lived without it.  However, it's important to remember that ironing still has it's place.  Also, steaming takes practice.  Just like learning to iron, you will have to learn to "feel" how slowly to apply steam and when to apply extra steam.  Fortunately, it doesn't take long to learn. 

Ebay Neatness Tool: DIY Professional Garment Folder

 First impressions are just as important for eBay sellers as for other retailers.  What your item looks like when it arrives can make or break a repeat customer.  I am careful to wash, and iron before photographing (neatness counts in photos).  Once the description is typed, items are neatly folded and stored in clear plastic bags.  The clear bag protects from pet hair, dust, and odors - but allows me to see what's inside so I can quickly grab what's needed when it's time to ship. 
      In my efforts to impress, I ran across this neat tool - the FlipFold clothing folder. So simple a 3 year old can use it -it gives a professional looking fold with NO effort.  Of course, $18 to $25 seems a little high for such a simple device.  This sounded like the perfect project for the DIY diva within me.  I started with Dan Pereda's tutorial for a large 25.5 X 30 inch folder.  It worked well on large items like towels and plus sized clothing.  I also made these two folders for smaller sized items:

 The 18 X 24 inch board works great for most Small to Medium adult size clothing and for Medium to Large size children's clothing.  The 12 X 18 folder is fantastic for baby clothes or small children's items.

I made my folders from corrugated plastic signs rescued from the dumpster (from a Relay for Life event that my son's Boy Scout troop helped with).  Duct tape works best for the hinges since it's flexible and durable. I found that it's best to create your hinge by holding your pieces together sandwich style - as it would look if the hinge was shut - then place your tape on one side and smooth it over the joint and then down on the other side. This will leave plenty of room inside the tape for the hinge to work without bending or rubbing your boards together.

Restoring Old Belts

     I'm a Belt Addict! I can't get enough of them.  They're jewelry for your waist and there's no end to the styles available.  When it comes to hunting for belts - I have it easy.  Living close to Dallas and Fort Worth - The Western Wear Fashion Capitol of The World - belts are abundant in all of my favorite flea market and thrift store hang outs.

     The trick is to separate the trash from the treasure.  By restoring old belts, you can quickly learn the limits of what can be fixed, and what can't.  Some of my favorite belts began as ratty things from the bottoms of rummage sale boxes.  Restoring an old belt is simple, and usually takes only a few minutes.

     Supplies: rubber gloves, lint free rags (torn up t-shirts are great), cotton swabs, acetone paint remover, non abrasive metal polish, permanent markers, leather restore ointment, masking tape, clear glossy spray enamel.
     First, determine if the metal has a clear coat of paint over it. On old belts, it's usually easy to see where this protective layer has begun to peel away.  To be sure, test a spot with a cotton swab dipped in nail polish remover.  If a light rubbing makes it look better, it's probably coated with paint. Remove the old paint with a cloth and nail polish remover.

A Vintage Gloria Vanderbilt with Flaking Paint

     Tarnish or Patina?  Both are the result of oxidation on metal. Tarnish is something you want to buff away with  metal polish. Patina is tarnish that highlights or accents the design of the metal in a desirable manner.  I like to leave deeply embossed metal or hammered metals unpolished because the patina enhances the texture and contrast of the piece.  But, the decision is really yours. If you like it shiny - polish it.  If you want a time worn, seasoned piece, leave it alone.


     Once your metal and leather are clean, a coat of spray enamel will seal the metal to prevent future tarnish.  Use masking tape to cover the leather, then spray a light coat of enamel onto the metal.  One or two coats should be enough. Be sure to keep them light and allow time to dry between coats. Let the paint dry completely before peeling away the tape, or you could leave some unsightly finger prints.

Metal cleaned and ready to spray with enamel.

     Leather belts are great survivors.  Dried leather is easy to restore with the right materials. Small faded spots or cracks can be disguised with a matching permanent marker. Old, dried leather can be revitalized with lanolin or mink oil based ointment.  But be careful - suede is an exception.  Oils used to clean smooth leathers will badly discolor suede.    

The Gloria Vanderbilt restored.

  

A restored Justin Belt

The belt before